7 Features to Consider When Choosing the Ideal Survival Knife
Survival knives have many uses which can include cutting or chopping a tree limb to make a fire. They may be used for prying, hammering, digging and a lot other functions in the outdoors even in life and death situations.
Features of the Ideal Survival Knife:
1. Tang:
The tank of a knife is the portion of the blade that extends down into the handle making the tank and the blade one solid piece of steel. Considered to be the best option is a knife having a full tang which means the tang goes all the way to the base of the handle giving the entire knife full strength.
2. Handle:
There is not really any right or wrong handles except you want to avoid any knife tha has a hollow handle. There is no way it can have a full tang and thus can easy break. Also you need to avoid the temptation of having a compass in the base of the handle as this also weakens the strength of the knife.
3. Blade Type:
Survival knives generally come in two types of steel: stainless and carbom. Stainless steel is virtually indestructible, can take a beating and can last a long time without rusting. Carbon steel knives are usually known to hold a good edge longer than stainless steel but will rust faster in the elements.
4. Blade Length:
Most survival knives are between 6 and 12 inches long. Any less and it might not be big enough to do the things you will have to get done in a survival situation such as chopping wood. Usually the range between 7 and 9 inches are the most versatile and easier to handle.
5. Blade Thickness:
You do not need to be too technical here. Just remember a thickness of about 3/16 to 4/16 of an inch will make it stable enough to withstand most tasks of wood chopping, prying, hammering, etc.
6. Blade Design:
There are two main types of blade design best suited for the survival knife. The clip point blade has a tip that is formed by a slight concave curve at the top. When slightly curved these tips are perfectly acceptable and sturdy enough for the survial knife. However the drop point blade is the best all around blade style. It is formed when the back or dull side of the knife slopes downward at a slight angle beginning around the half-way point and meets the blade edge slightly above center. This type is best suited for the various tasks required out in the field.
7. Sheath:
If you aren't familiar with serious survival knives the sheath of your knife may seem unimportant, however the sheath will affect a lot about how you carry and draw your knife. There are three things to consider in a sheath:
A. Lower attachment: Some type of hole or attachment piece at the tip end of the sheath used for strapping the knife to your leg when on the belt or onto the backpack strap.
B. Belt and Lanyard attachment: Does the sheath come with a belt loop and does the knife handle have a hole for a lanyard?
C. Strap: A crossover strap right where the handle meets the sheath is best because a strap at the base of the handel can allow the knife to slide out.
In conclusion, you want to make the best choice possible, without paying an outrageous amount for what is basically a piece of metal with minimum moving parts, if any. You want a knife that can perform one or two basic functtions and variations thereof and want a sturdy implement that will hold up under some degree of stress.
Features of the Ideal Survival Knife:
1. Tang:
The tank of a knife is the portion of the blade that extends down into the handle making the tank and the blade one solid piece of steel. Considered to be the best option is a knife having a full tang which means the tang goes all the way to the base of the handle giving the entire knife full strength.
2. Handle:
There is not really any right or wrong handles except you want to avoid any knife tha has a hollow handle. There is no way it can have a full tang and thus can easy break. Also you need to avoid the temptation of having a compass in the base of the handle as this also weakens the strength of the knife.
3. Blade Type:
Survival knives generally come in two types of steel: stainless and carbom. Stainless steel is virtually indestructible, can take a beating and can last a long time without rusting. Carbon steel knives are usually known to hold a good edge longer than stainless steel but will rust faster in the elements.
4. Blade Length:
Most survival knives are between 6 and 12 inches long. Any less and it might not be big enough to do the things you will have to get done in a survival situation such as chopping wood. Usually the range between 7 and 9 inches are the most versatile and easier to handle.
5. Blade Thickness:
You do not need to be too technical here. Just remember a thickness of about 3/16 to 4/16 of an inch will make it stable enough to withstand most tasks of wood chopping, prying, hammering, etc.
6. Blade Design:
There are two main types of blade design best suited for the survival knife. The clip point blade has a tip that is formed by a slight concave curve at the top. When slightly curved these tips are perfectly acceptable and sturdy enough for the survial knife. However the drop point blade is the best all around blade style. It is formed when the back or dull side of the knife slopes downward at a slight angle beginning around the half-way point and meets the blade edge slightly above center. This type is best suited for the various tasks required out in the field.
7. Sheath:
If you aren't familiar with serious survival knives the sheath of your knife may seem unimportant, however the sheath will affect a lot about how you carry and draw your knife. There are three things to consider in a sheath:
A. Lower attachment: Some type of hole or attachment piece at the tip end of the sheath used for strapping the knife to your leg when on the belt or onto the backpack strap.
B. Belt and Lanyard attachment: Does the sheath come with a belt loop and does the knife handle have a hole for a lanyard?
C. Strap: A crossover strap right where the handle meets the sheath is best because a strap at the base of the handel can allow the knife to slide out.
In conclusion, you want to make the best choice possible, without paying an outrageous amount for what is basically a piece of metal with minimum moving parts, if any. You want a knife that can perform one or two basic functtions and variations thereof and want a sturdy implement that will hold up under some degree of stress.
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