Why Do We Surf?
Whether you are an experienced surfer or just learning how, it's really important to take a step back and realize why we surf and learn what surfing truly is all about.
If we don't know why we surf, we'll never be able to teach others.
First off, surfing is a sport, just like soccer and football.
It's an athletic (and competitive) activity that takes a lot of practice and physical conditioning to be successful at it.
There are surf contests all over the world where professional surfs compete against one another for both a prize purse as well as world ranking status.
But that's just one layer of it.
Surfing is a lifestyle.
It carries with it a style of dress, a global dialect, and a simplistic view of life's realities.
Surfer's have a constant pursuit to find the best waves out there, almost making their intense dedication seem religious.
Surfers are no longer stereotyped for being druggies or hippies as they once were portrayed.
You are more likely to find older adults who surf at a church service on Sunday morning than out at a bar on a Saturday night.
Surfing is also an art form.
It doesn't matter if you ride a short board and do aerials off the lip of the wave or you hang ten on the nose of a long board, there is an art to riding a wave.
They say the ocean is the canvas and we (surfers) are the brush that creates the art.
The surfing industry has exploded into a multi-million dollar industry that churns out everything from surf boards, clothing and accessories, to major motion pictures and exotic travel packages.
It's mind boggling just how far surfing has come just in the past few decades.
Surfers are getting younger.
There are now surf camps all over the world that cater to young kids who want to learn how to catch waves.
Does any of this really matter? Not really.
Surfing is not about being competitive, living a certain way, or making money.
It's about you, your surf board, and the ocean.
Surfing's essence is found in that very first time you stand up on your board.
It's that feeling of energy.
I call it a rush.
Surfing takes you places and let's you meet new people.
Surfer's all have one thing in common, they just want to surf.
Plain and simple.
Life is better when you surf.
I can't imagine life without it.
Now, are you ready? Let's go surfing!
If we don't know why we surf, we'll never be able to teach others.
First off, surfing is a sport, just like soccer and football.
It's an athletic (and competitive) activity that takes a lot of practice and physical conditioning to be successful at it.
There are surf contests all over the world where professional surfs compete against one another for both a prize purse as well as world ranking status.
But that's just one layer of it.
Surfing is a lifestyle.
It carries with it a style of dress, a global dialect, and a simplistic view of life's realities.
Surfer's have a constant pursuit to find the best waves out there, almost making their intense dedication seem religious.
Surfers are no longer stereotyped for being druggies or hippies as they once were portrayed.
You are more likely to find older adults who surf at a church service on Sunday morning than out at a bar on a Saturday night.
Surfing is also an art form.
It doesn't matter if you ride a short board and do aerials off the lip of the wave or you hang ten on the nose of a long board, there is an art to riding a wave.
They say the ocean is the canvas and we (surfers) are the brush that creates the art.
The surfing industry has exploded into a multi-million dollar industry that churns out everything from surf boards, clothing and accessories, to major motion pictures and exotic travel packages.
It's mind boggling just how far surfing has come just in the past few decades.
Surfers are getting younger.
There are now surf camps all over the world that cater to young kids who want to learn how to catch waves.
Does any of this really matter? Not really.
Surfing is not about being competitive, living a certain way, or making money.
It's about you, your surf board, and the ocean.
Surfing's essence is found in that very first time you stand up on your board.
It's that feeling of energy.
I call it a rush.
Surfing takes you places and let's you meet new people.
Surfer's all have one thing in common, they just want to surf.
Plain and simple.
Life is better when you surf.
I can't imagine life without it.
Now, are you ready? Let's go surfing!
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