How to replace/re fix a radiator
Plumbing How to Guide – (Re-fixing radiator to partition wall if brackets have come loose)
Tools required
Materials required
Hi there, my names Jonathan Horton and I run JHDS plumbing and tiling in Edinburgh and have been a plumber for over 7 years.
Common problem I have been seeing over the years is loose radiator brackets. This for one thing can be extremely dangerous as the weight is now all resting on the plumbing pipes themselves causing a lot of pressure and making the risk of leaks increase tenfold. You want to nip this in the bud as soon as possible. See below for a step by step guide to rectifying the problem.
Firstly you want to turn of the valves on either side, the brass fitting that requires turning are usually hidden on one side (lock shield side) by plastic cap which just pulls off to show the fitting below. This needs turned along with the thermostatic valve on the opposite side, both clockwise in order to shut them off. (Be very careful as can easily break the small brass section of lock shield)
Next you want to take your flat head screw driver or radiator key and open up the air emittance valve.
Now you are ready to drain the radiator. So you can take your adjustable spanner or water pump pliers and start turning one of the nuts where it joins the radiator to the valve which will then start releasing the water stored inside. Be sure to have a flat plastic or metal container resting underneath to catch the water and maybe even a bigger container to pour that into if and when it gets full. As soon as the water starts to drip from the fitting you can control how fast or slow the water drains out by how far you undo the fitting, clockwise or anti clockwise.
Once you are sure the radiator has been drained down enough that no more water is even dripping from the coupling. Then you can fully undo the couplings which where connecting the radiator to the valves.
The radiator is now ready to be lifted right off the wall brackets. In extreme cases the brackets will have come completely out which means that after disconnecting the couplings the weight of the radiator could fall to the ground so always be ready to support its weight or even better have another person support the weight while you disconnect the couplings on either side.
BEFORE moving the radiator over to a safe place to allow you to work on the wall. ALWAYS make sure to tip it up at an angle over your container to make sure you have the last of the water/black sludge out of the bottom. This black water is caused by the oxidation of the pipes and radiator from the inside out. Making for an ideal white rug/carpet killer. So always check.
Once you are sure there is no remaining water/sludge in the radiator it can be lifted clear and put to one side. Now it is time to sort out the partition wall adding in more timber to better support the radiator. If the screws are still partially in the wall plugs then unscrew and remove the brackets. Where the damage isn't severe and there's still a hole rather than a missing chunk of plaster, then "spring toggle plasterboard fixings" or "butterfly plasterboard fixings" can cure the problem. If you google the above terms for the fixings you will be shown how to use them.
Sometimes what I see is that the weight has become so much that a large section of plasterboard has been ripped straight off the wall and there is not a fixing available today that could help that situation. Here is what to do. As the damage is so bad, you will now need to replace the section of plasterboard which covers this area. So find the screw holes or cut away as much plaster as you can until you see the screws and then unscrew all the screws from the wooden stud work. This should now leave a large space revealing all the wooden studwork and insulation. As the radiator has previously ripped free from the wall with weight, it is important to add additional strength. This will come in the form of two additional vertical wooden 2x4 studs. It's a good idea to add in a stud in line with each bracket.
So measure the distance from the top horizontal stud to the bottom horizontal stud and cut two new studs to aid in supporting the weight. Measuring the radiator from side to side, you can transfer this measurement over to the skirting board between the valves and mark the centerline for where the radiator will be. After the centerline is marked you can then measure the distance to the brackets on the back of the radiator and transfer those measurements to allow you to position the studs, vertically in the right spot. Once your happy, there in the right spot you can use your level to make sure there straight. Then using your drill can begin to screw these to the two horizontal studs, top and bottom, putting the screws in at 45 degree angles.
Once the new stud work is added you will need to measure the size of plasterboard required to fill the gap and using your pad saw/Stanley knife cut it to size. If a little large you can use your plasterboard sander to smooth down the size until flush. Once that is done you can screw on the new section of plasterboard to the studwork, including adding screws to the two new studs that have been added.
Using the radiator as a template you can work out the horizontal and vertical positions of the brackets. Again mark the centerline on the plasterboard and measure out to find the correct position. Once happy with your measuring skills, you can begin to screw the brackets onto the new studwork and plaster.
Before you get ready to hang the radiator back on the wall you may want to fill the screw holes with polyfiller and leave to set, before finally sanding down until flush. Now you can lift back on the radiator which should line up perfectly with the current valves.
Using your adjustable spanner or water pumps you can begin to tighten the coupler back onto the valves on either side. Once fully tightened you can close off the air emittance valve and open up both valves fully. Now go to your boiler and check the pressure. Normally a cold boiler should be sitting and 1.5 bar. After releasing so much water out of the system the pressure has likely dropped. So you now need to find what's called "the filling loop". You may wish to phone a plumber to sort this if you cannot locate one. It's a flexible hose usually with a black lever at either end and they should both be closed. Sure if you google "boiler filling loop" you would see images to help.
Once located you can open both the levers which will then add water to the heating system from the mains supply and your pressure gauge should begin to rise. Once at 1.5 bar you can shut them off and return to the radiator where you will need to bleed off the excess air using your flat head screwdriver or radiator key. Loosening the air emittance valve you should hear air escaping, once there is no air left you will then get a dribble of water. Returning to your boiler to re check the pressure, you may need to add a bit more to bring it back up to 1.5 bar.
Once the pressure is good and you are sure there are no leaks. You can turn on your boiler and check to see everything's working well.
It is a fair bit of work but perfectly capable for a regular DIY enthusiast.
Thank you for reading.
Tools required
- Water pump pliers
- Electric drill
- Adjustable spanner
- Medium sized drywall screws
- Level
- Stanley knife
- Pencil
- Pad saw
- Plasterboard sander
- wood saw
Materials required
- Plastic containers x 2
- Butterfly or spring toggle plasterboard fixings
- Length of 2x4 wood
Hi there, my names Jonathan Horton and I run JHDS plumbing and tiling in Edinburgh and have been a plumber for over 7 years.
Common problem I have been seeing over the years is loose radiator brackets. This for one thing can be extremely dangerous as the weight is now all resting on the plumbing pipes themselves causing a lot of pressure and making the risk of leaks increase tenfold. You want to nip this in the bud as soon as possible. See below for a step by step guide to rectifying the problem.
Firstly you want to turn of the valves on either side, the brass fitting that requires turning are usually hidden on one side (lock shield side) by plastic cap which just pulls off to show the fitting below. This needs turned along with the thermostatic valve on the opposite side, both clockwise in order to shut them off. (Be very careful as can easily break the small brass section of lock shield)
Next you want to take your flat head screw driver or radiator key and open up the air emittance valve.
Now you are ready to drain the radiator. So you can take your adjustable spanner or water pump pliers and start turning one of the nuts where it joins the radiator to the valve which will then start releasing the water stored inside. Be sure to have a flat plastic or metal container resting underneath to catch the water and maybe even a bigger container to pour that into if and when it gets full. As soon as the water starts to drip from the fitting you can control how fast or slow the water drains out by how far you undo the fitting, clockwise or anti clockwise.
Once you are sure the radiator has been drained down enough that no more water is even dripping from the coupling. Then you can fully undo the couplings which where connecting the radiator to the valves.
The radiator is now ready to be lifted right off the wall brackets. In extreme cases the brackets will have come completely out which means that after disconnecting the couplings the weight of the radiator could fall to the ground so always be ready to support its weight or even better have another person support the weight while you disconnect the couplings on either side.
BEFORE moving the radiator over to a safe place to allow you to work on the wall. ALWAYS make sure to tip it up at an angle over your container to make sure you have the last of the water/black sludge out of the bottom. This black water is caused by the oxidation of the pipes and radiator from the inside out. Making for an ideal white rug/carpet killer. So always check.
Once you are sure there is no remaining water/sludge in the radiator it can be lifted clear and put to one side. Now it is time to sort out the partition wall adding in more timber to better support the radiator. If the screws are still partially in the wall plugs then unscrew and remove the brackets. Where the damage isn't severe and there's still a hole rather than a missing chunk of plaster, then "spring toggle plasterboard fixings" or "butterfly plasterboard fixings" can cure the problem. If you google the above terms for the fixings you will be shown how to use them.
Sometimes what I see is that the weight has become so much that a large section of plasterboard has been ripped straight off the wall and there is not a fixing available today that could help that situation. Here is what to do. As the damage is so bad, you will now need to replace the section of plasterboard which covers this area. So find the screw holes or cut away as much plaster as you can until you see the screws and then unscrew all the screws from the wooden stud work. This should now leave a large space revealing all the wooden studwork and insulation. As the radiator has previously ripped free from the wall with weight, it is important to add additional strength. This will come in the form of two additional vertical wooden 2x4 studs. It's a good idea to add in a stud in line with each bracket.
So measure the distance from the top horizontal stud to the bottom horizontal stud and cut two new studs to aid in supporting the weight. Measuring the radiator from side to side, you can transfer this measurement over to the skirting board between the valves and mark the centerline for where the radiator will be. After the centerline is marked you can then measure the distance to the brackets on the back of the radiator and transfer those measurements to allow you to position the studs, vertically in the right spot. Once your happy, there in the right spot you can use your level to make sure there straight. Then using your drill can begin to screw these to the two horizontal studs, top and bottom, putting the screws in at 45 degree angles.
Once the new stud work is added you will need to measure the size of plasterboard required to fill the gap and using your pad saw/Stanley knife cut it to size. If a little large you can use your plasterboard sander to smooth down the size until flush. Once that is done you can screw on the new section of plasterboard to the studwork, including adding screws to the two new studs that have been added.
Using the radiator as a template you can work out the horizontal and vertical positions of the brackets. Again mark the centerline on the plasterboard and measure out to find the correct position. Once happy with your measuring skills, you can begin to screw the brackets onto the new studwork and plaster.
Before you get ready to hang the radiator back on the wall you may want to fill the screw holes with polyfiller and leave to set, before finally sanding down until flush. Now you can lift back on the radiator which should line up perfectly with the current valves.
Using your adjustable spanner or water pumps you can begin to tighten the coupler back onto the valves on either side. Once fully tightened you can close off the air emittance valve and open up both valves fully. Now go to your boiler and check the pressure. Normally a cold boiler should be sitting and 1.5 bar. After releasing so much water out of the system the pressure has likely dropped. So you now need to find what's called "the filling loop". You may wish to phone a plumber to sort this if you cannot locate one. It's a flexible hose usually with a black lever at either end and they should both be closed. Sure if you google "boiler filling loop" you would see images to help.
Once located you can open both the levers which will then add water to the heating system from the mains supply and your pressure gauge should begin to rise. Once at 1.5 bar you can shut them off and return to the radiator where you will need to bleed off the excess air using your flat head screwdriver or radiator key. Loosening the air emittance valve you should hear air escaping, once there is no air left you will then get a dribble of water. Returning to your boiler to re check the pressure, you may need to add a bit more to bring it back up to 1.5 bar.
Once the pressure is good and you are sure there are no leaks. You can turn on your boiler and check to see everything's working well.
It is a fair bit of work but perfectly capable for a regular DIY enthusiast.
Thank you for reading.
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