The Truth About Sun Screen by DermaQuest

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Ahhhhhh, the smile the sun puts on our face, the spring it puts in our step, and the flowers it brings for our pleasure. It's difficult to believe that the warm and wonderful sun we so enjoy can be dam­aging and dangerous.

Facts are, however, that over exposure to the sun has caused a dramatic increase in skin cancer. One in six Americans will be diagnosed in their life time, and over one million this year.

Scientists believe the sun also causes 90% of the aging of the skin and their concerns are being verbal­ized and printed in the media. Clients who wish to stay younger in appearance will welcome information from their skincare provider that will keep them looking younger.

The most effective tool an estheti­cian can use in the war against skin aging and cancer is education on the use of SPF.

Esthetic professionals must be able to answer their clients' questions concerning their self-care and that of their family, providing them with cor­rect options in the product choices they make.

The following are some of the questions the esthetician will hear at the skin care chair, with the answers they will need to provide.

WHAT IS SPF?

SPF is an acronym for ‘Sun Protection Factor,' a number assigned to a product to measure the length of time it can, in theory, protect skin from reddening from UVB, compared to how long the skin takes to minimally redden without the protection of that product.

Most SPF products are made with high levels of Zinc.  That is because Zinc supports healingwhich makes it a preferred ingredient for skin that is being treated.

Zinc supports healing and rejuvenation of skin receiving treatment for anti-aging, for acne, and dry and skin, but is not visually apparent.

WHAT SHOULD BE ADDITIONALLY FORMULATED INTO THE PRODUCTS?

Unfortunately, even products with broad spectrum SPFs cannot completely block the sun. Some UV radiation reach­es and penetrates the skin, generating free radicals and attacking the skin cells, collagen and elastin.

Many lines add mois­turizers to their SPFs to provide more reasons for the clients to utilize them and to reduce the number of products the client must buy for their skin care regimen.

15? 30? HIGHER? WHAT SHOULD I BUY?

According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, SPFs of at least 15 should be recommended as they prevent 93 percent of UVB from reaching the skin.

SPF 30 blocks only 4 percent more UVB (97%), and those over 30 protect the skin from just a miniscule more per­centage of rays.

An SPF 30 is advisable for sun-sen­sitive individuals, skin cancer patients, and people at high risk of develop­ing skin cancer.

They are also impor­tant for clients who are using exfoliants, such as alpha hydroxy acids, retinoids, acne products, or other medications that increase sun sensitivity, such as Accutane, antibiotics , and high blood pressure medications.

Even with the ideal sunscreen, there is a small amount of UV rays can pen­etrate the skin and cause damage. For that reason, full application compliance is important for the user, after determin­ing the time for reapplication.

WATERPROOF VS. WATER RESISTANT

With the new monograph, the term "waterproof" is no longer acceptable in the promotion or labeling of a product, and is replaced by "very water resistant" when it is published and regulated.

Sam Dhatt, MS, MBA, is CEO of Dermaquest Skin Therapy and a highly respected and award winning cosmoceu­tical chemist. Dhatt has formulated and manufactured successful skin care prod­ucts for over 700 companies during his 20 year career as a sought after formulator. His proprietary product line, Dermaquest Skin Therapy, Hayward, CA, a results-ori­ented product line with spa and physician levels of care, is sold only to clinical esthe­ticians, spas and physicians. Dermaquest Skin Therapy can be reached at 800-213-8100. www.skintherapydq.com
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