How to Install a Concrete Patio
- 1). Your first step is deciding where you want your concrete patio, what shape, what measurements, how thick, what special effects you'd like to see like aggregate, colored concrete, or patterned concrete. To keep it simple, let's just say you are going to put down a 10'x 20' patio in a nice rectangle shape with no special effects. At this point, take the measurements, put them on paper and procede to the next step.
- 2). With rudimentary drawings, go online to find out the building requirements for your area. Mine, for instance, requires a building permit for a 10'x10' area or larger. That means you have to file the proper papers before doing and digging and pouring. If you need one and don't get one, every real estate person you ever meet will ask you, "Do you have a permit for this?" If the project can be seen from the street, you have the possibility of a nosey neighbor reporting you to the county. A permit is a hassle to be sure, but a double hassle if you don't get one.
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removable contraction joint
After you've gotten your permit, the next step is to decide what kind of cement and whether you want to mix it yourself or order it, premixed from a local concrete company. For a project this size, it is recommended you order it and have it delivered to your construction site. Simply tell the company the square footage of the area you are pouring and they will help you decide how much you need. Don't order it until you are sure you can have the next couple of steps ready before they come with your cement. - 4
an example of proper form technique
Form setting. Start digging. You can set your concrete patio right on top of the ground, but most people dig around the outside to give your patio proper footing. Set in your 2x6 forms around the outside, keeping them in place with metal or wooden stakes. The larger the size you are doing, the more professional you are going to want your equipment to be. Don't expect 2x4s and wooden stakes to hold back two tons of cement! You can put sand down on the ground and lay rebar over it for more strength. Many times you have to have this form inspected by the county before you can pour your cement. Check on their requirements. For larger areas, you'll need to make contraction joints. Every 5' or so, place a 1x4 into your form. You can either make it removable or leave it it. If you leave it in, use nicer wood as it will be part of your patio. If you want to remove it, put nails or some other method so that you can pull it out while the cement is curing. - 5). Order your cement. For this job, you are ordering for an area of 200 sq ft at, say, 6" deep. They will come back with, "You need 3.7 cubic yards of cement." Just say yes and pay the man. Schedule a time that they will bring your cement, then be prepared to wait! I have yet to see a cement truck show up on time.
- 6). When the truck arrives, the driver will be pretty helpful in the pouring of it. The cement will come out on a moveable slide that can be adjusted to get to most corners of the project. Let him pour it out and have on your rubber boots to start stomping around in it. You are trying to remove any air pockets. Once you have the air pockets removed, you are ready for the next step.
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screeding
You'll need a very long 2x4 to "screed" your cement. Basically, you lay down the board on end on your forms, and move it back and forth in a sawing motion to level your cement. Once you are sure to have your cement level, next step. - 8
getting around
For larger projects, you'll need contraction joints to prevent your concrete from cracking from hot and cold temperatures. You can use wood "spacers" for wider joints or there is a hand tool you can rent/buy from the local hardware store. Just decide where you want those marks, say every ten feet, and slide the tool along your 2x4. If you can't reach all the way across, get a 2x6 and place it across the forms so that you can walk "on" your concrete work without messing it up. - 9
Raking with broom
Finishing the cement. If you want a smooth finish, use a metal trowel or even a 2x4. If you have a area that might get wet and you want to prevent pedestrian slippage, after you hand your concrete all smooth, go over it with a broom. That will create nice roughage for shoes, but may be tough on bare feet. It's up to you. There are also plastic forms that recreate flagstone or brick patterns in your cement at your local hardware store that can add a nice effect. There is also a wonderful hand tool that you slide along the edges of your cement that will round the edges for a nice professional look. Do that as a last step! - 10
Curing the concrete. It takes about three days to set up to a walkable hardness. You must keep the concrete damp the first and second day to prevent the top from drying quicker than underneath and cracking the whole slab. Just take a water hose and give it a quick misting about twice a day. If you'd like, you can cover the area with plastic, but let the top dry just a tad before putting it on or you'll have those marks on your patio.
I've included several links below to help you in your research, what some of the tools look like and possible costs. Sometimes you can purchase used tools through places like Amazon.com
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