A Wine Lover"s Weekly Review Of $10 Wines - A Mass-Market Chardonnay From France

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I won't count how many Chardonnays I have reviewed including numerous French offerings. Today's example comes from the high-volume Kressmann winery, which was founded in 1871. They are so big that their production facilities and offices encompass 7.5 hectares (that's just about 20 acres), bigger than many producer's vineyards. Kressmann's vineyards stretch over 900 acres (365 hectares) in Bordeaux and 650 acres (260 hectares) in Languedoc. Their plant can fill 25 thousand bottles an hour. The companion wine is an Israeli Chardonnay costing more than five times as much.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Kressmann Selection Chardonnay 2011 12% alcohol about $8 Let's start with the marketing materials.

"Tasting Note: Aromas of citrus, apple and pears. Well-balanced with a good finish. Serving Suggestion: Ideal as an aperitif or to complement grilled fish or roast chicken." And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine tasted of apples and had slightly unpleasant acidity. When I nibbled on Japanese rice crackers the wine's acidity was muted and I sensed some metal. In the presence of a dry, honey garlic barbecued chicken breast this liquid was wispy and not very present. I got pears. Dry General Tao barbecued chicken thighs brought lime to the forefront of my glass. A medley of sautéed red, yellow, and orange peppers continued the limeiness and the libation was fairly long. Commercial potato salad took away the fruit and didn't leave much else in Chardy.

The next meal began with homemade vegetable soup flavored with caraway seeds. Our French friend responded with crisp acidity and some pears. Then came the centerpiece; homemade chicken breast nuggets in a medley of spices. Now the beverage was rather steely and gave hints of lemon. Quinoa softened its acidity. And fresh pineapple just muted this wine.

The final meal started with a potato appetizer in puff pastry. Whitey was appley and somewhat sweet. Then came boxed stuffed manicotti with ricotta and mozzarella cheese in tomato sauce to which I added lots of grated parmesan cheese. The wine was sweet and rather thin, and it's acidity was raw. Fresh strawberries succeeded in taming the acidity. The other dessert was Praline filled bittersweet Swiss chocolate squares. Now the acidity virtually disappeared. All I got from my glass was a wisp of fruit.

Final verdict. They won't need a huge bottling plant for me. I am usually no real fan of Chardonnay. This offering cannot make me change my mind.
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