Repotting an Orchid Can Be Daunting
Repotting an orchid isn't as difficult as I just made it sound.
But I will say this: It is sufficiently different from repotting other types of plants.
You maybe inclined to put it off.
I got one word for you: Don't.
An orchid should not be kept in the same pot for a long time or else the growth rate of that orchid becomes slow.
It may even die.
There are two ways which suggest that whether you orchid needs repotting or not.
First, the plant may have come out of the pot in which it had been kept.
For example, if your orchid is one that produces pseudo bulbs (bulblike, swollen stems that support the leaves), The growths which will be new will be seen extending beyond the edge of whatever pot you have kept it in, leaving behind brittle and easily damaged young roots dangling in the air.
Second, the medium in which you are growing the orchids may have reached a condition which can also be characterized as 'useless'.
If its appearance is sodden and/or mushy and if it doesn't drain freely, then it's clear that the plant requires repotting; if you want to keep it from rotting i.
e.
Orchids aren't just repotted just as one, two three.
There are proper procedures and times to repot orchids.
The best time to repot an orchid with pseudo bulbs is just after it has begun to produce a new growth BUT before the new roots have begun to elongate.
The potting medium (which is recommended and would also be the best to serve the purpose) would be a commercially prepared mix based, on medium size chunks of bark fire.
But, it depends which type of orchid you're repotting.
If you're repotting the kind of orchid that lacks pseudo bulbs, such as a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (paphiopedilum), you are free to repot at any time you're comfortable with, although it is best to do so when the plant is not in flower.
Orchids aren't just repotted just as one, two three.
There are proper procedures and times to repot orchids.
The best time to repot an orchid with pseudo bulbs is just after it has begun to produce a new growth BUT before the new roots have begun to elongate.
The potting medium (which is recommended and would also be the best to serve the purpose) would be a commercially prepared mix based, on medium size chunks of bark fire.
But, it depends which type of orchid you're repotting.
If you're repotting the kind of orchid that lacks pseudo bulbs, such as a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (paphiopedilum), you are free to repot at any time you're comfortable with, although it is best to do so when the plant is not in flower.
1.
UNPOT THE ORCHID Firstly; you need to prepare the area in which you're going to work.
Prepare this area of yours by spreading out a couple (or more, whatever you're comfortable with) sheets of newspapers.
Repotting is messy work.
Now, empty all the contents of the pot (on the newspaper, of course) by turning it upside down and thump the sides of the pot to dislodge it.
You may notice that (okay it's not maybe.
Of course you should be able to notice if you have a perfectly good pair of eyes) the roots will stick to the pot, which will make the removing difficult.
At times like these, the knife comes into handy (yes, it's not just supposed to be used to stab people in the gut, you know:P) Use the kitchen knife to loosen them up a little.
The plant will not be harmed if you inadvertently damage some of the old roots so don't feel sorry for it.
Once you have removed the plant, carefully pry the roots apart and shake off as much of the old potting mixture as possible.
Don't worry if some still clings to the roots.
2.
PREPARE FOR REPOTTING It's isn't simple to repot the plant.
Before you repot the plant, you will need to trim the roots a little bit.
Use a heavy pair of heavy scissors or small shears, and have a sharp knife on hand.
Make sure your cutting tools are sterilized so that prevention of spread of viral diseases is maximized.
You can sterilize the tools by wiping with a cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol.
Small shears, and have a sharp knife on hand.
Make sure your cutting tools are sterilized so that prevention of spread of viral diseases is maximized.
You can sterilize the tools by wiping with a cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol.
Make sure that you remove all the dead, dry and/or damaged roots.
Mushy and light brown conditions and appearances are a sign of dead roots.
Healthy roots are firm and white and have light-green growing tips.
Cut off any old, leafless pseudo bulbs which happen to be present at that time.
Often, you may notice that there is more than one new growth or 'lead'; you can divide the plant by cutting through the rhizome.
Make sure that, each one of your divisions has at least three pseudo bulbs and a new lead.
3.
REPOT THE PLANT Now, for this, make sure you choose a pot which will be able to accommodate the growth of the plant for a whole two years, based on the observation of the plant, i.
e.
how much it would grow in approximately two years.
Wash the pot thoroughly and soak it in a 10 percent solution of chlorine bleach for 30 minutes IF the pot you are using is an old one.
After 30 minutes, rinse the pot thoroughly.
If the pot you are using is made of clay, the pot should air out for a few days.
If the pot you're using is a clay pot and is new, soak it in water for a few minutes and you're all good.
But I will say this: It is sufficiently different from repotting other types of plants.
You maybe inclined to put it off.
I got one word for you: Don't.
An orchid should not be kept in the same pot for a long time or else the growth rate of that orchid becomes slow.
It may even die.
There are two ways which suggest that whether you orchid needs repotting or not.
First, the plant may have come out of the pot in which it had been kept.
For example, if your orchid is one that produces pseudo bulbs (bulblike, swollen stems that support the leaves), The growths which will be new will be seen extending beyond the edge of whatever pot you have kept it in, leaving behind brittle and easily damaged young roots dangling in the air.
Second, the medium in which you are growing the orchids may have reached a condition which can also be characterized as 'useless'.
If its appearance is sodden and/or mushy and if it doesn't drain freely, then it's clear that the plant requires repotting; if you want to keep it from rotting i.
e.
Orchids aren't just repotted just as one, two three.
There are proper procedures and times to repot orchids.
The best time to repot an orchid with pseudo bulbs is just after it has begun to produce a new growth BUT before the new roots have begun to elongate.
The potting medium (which is recommended and would also be the best to serve the purpose) would be a commercially prepared mix based, on medium size chunks of bark fire.
But, it depends which type of orchid you're repotting.
If you're repotting the kind of orchid that lacks pseudo bulbs, such as a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (paphiopedilum), you are free to repot at any time you're comfortable with, although it is best to do so when the plant is not in flower.
Orchids aren't just repotted just as one, two three.
There are proper procedures and times to repot orchids.
The best time to repot an orchid with pseudo bulbs is just after it has begun to produce a new growth BUT before the new roots have begun to elongate.
The potting medium (which is recommended and would also be the best to serve the purpose) would be a commercially prepared mix based, on medium size chunks of bark fire.
But, it depends which type of orchid you're repotting.
If you're repotting the kind of orchid that lacks pseudo bulbs, such as a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (paphiopedilum), you are free to repot at any time you're comfortable with, although it is best to do so when the plant is not in flower.
1.
UNPOT THE ORCHID Firstly; you need to prepare the area in which you're going to work.
Prepare this area of yours by spreading out a couple (or more, whatever you're comfortable with) sheets of newspapers.
Repotting is messy work.
Now, empty all the contents of the pot (on the newspaper, of course) by turning it upside down and thump the sides of the pot to dislodge it.
You may notice that (okay it's not maybe.
Of course you should be able to notice if you have a perfectly good pair of eyes) the roots will stick to the pot, which will make the removing difficult.
At times like these, the knife comes into handy (yes, it's not just supposed to be used to stab people in the gut, you know:P) Use the kitchen knife to loosen them up a little.
The plant will not be harmed if you inadvertently damage some of the old roots so don't feel sorry for it.
Once you have removed the plant, carefully pry the roots apart and shake off as much of the old potting mixture as possible.
Don't worry if some still clings to the roots.
2.
PREPARE FOR REPOTTING It's isn't simple to repot the plant.
Before you repot the plant, you will need to trim the roots a little bit.
Use a heavy pair of heavy scissors or small shears, and have a sharp knife on hand.
Make sure your cutting tools are sterilized so that prevention of spread of viral diseases is maximized.
You can sterilize the tools by wiping with a cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol.
Small shears, and have a sharp knife on hand.
Make sure your cutting tools are sterilized so that prevention of spread of viral diseases is maximized.
You can sterilize the tools by wiping with a cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol.
Make sure that you remove all the dead, dry and/or damaged roots.
Mushy and light brown conditions and appearances are a sign of dead roots.
Healthy roots are firm and white and have light-green growing tips.
Cut off any old, leafless pseudo bulbs which happen to be present at that time.
Often, you may notice that there is more than one new growth or 'lead'; you can divide the plant by cutting through the rhizome.
Make sure that, each one of your divisions has at least three pseudo bulbs and a new lead.
3.
REPOT THE PLANT Now, for this, make sure you choose a pot which will be able to accommodate the growth of the plant for a whole two years, based on the observation of the plant, i.
e.
how much it would grow in approximately two years.
Wash the pot thoroughly and soak it in a 10 percent solution of chlorine bleach for 30 minutes IF the pot you are using is an old one.
After 30 minutes, rinse the pot thoroughly.
If the pot you are using is made of clay, the pot should air out for a few days.
If the pot you're using is a clay pot and is new, soak it in water for a few minutes and you're all good.
Source...