How to Install Plumbing for a Toilet
- 1). Measure at least 12 inches away from the back wall to where the toilet is going to sit, marking the floor for the flange hole to be cut out (remember to add the baseboard thickness into the equation: 12 inches plus baseboard thickness equals distance from back wall). The marked line should be parallel with the back wall. If there's a side wall close by, check to see the distance needed (again, add in baseboard) to the center of the flange hole from the side wall (usually 15 inches). Mark the required distance from the side wall (line parallel with the side wall), and where the two marked lines cross is the center of the flange hole.
- 2). Stand the flange (with the screw holes at the top) over the marked cross (so the cross is in the center) and mark around it, using a pencil where the flange rests on the floor. Cut this hole out of the subfloor and push the flange into the hole so the flange screw holes rest on the floor. Under the floor, glue an ABS 90-degree elbow joint onto the flange, making sure the joint faces the direction of the existing sewer line. Use galvanized screws to screw the flange to the floor.
- 3). Work your way down the new sewer line, creating the necessary joints until you reach the point where you connect the new line to the existing line (when cutting each joint, make sure that the sewer line and coupling is clean before applying glue). You'll probably need a 90-degree or 60-degree coupling here. Once the new sewer line is connected to the old line, the sewer line is complete.
- 4). Turn off the water at the main shutoff valve, completely draining the copper line you will cut into. Work from the connection point of the new copper line to the old, then down to the toilet. You should end up with the end of the new copper line coming up through the subfloor to the left or right of the toilet, and close to the back wall.
- 5). Cut the copper piping with a tubing cutter. Place the cutter over the pipe where the cut needs to be made, and tighten the cutter. Rotate the cutter once, then tighten a little and rotate again. Repeat until the pipe is cut through.
- 6). Solder each joint. Sand the end of the copper pipe, as well as the interior of the coupling, with emery cloth. Apply a small amount of flux to the pipe end (about an inch) with a flux brush, as well as the inside of the coupling.
- 7). Push the coupling onto the end of the pipe, and uncoil roughly 8 inches of solder. Light the propane torch, holding the tip of the flame against the middle of the coupling until a sizzling sound is heard.
- 8). Touch the solder to where the coupling meets the copper pipe. If the solder melts, the pipe is hot enough. Allow about 3/4 inch to melt into the joint. Wipe away any excess solder with a damp rag.
- 9). Place the shutoff valve over the end of the 1/2-inch copper pipe below the toilet. First, slide the compression nut down over the copper pipe, followed by the compression ring (push both down about an inch). Slide the shutoff valve down onto the end of the 1/2 inch copper pipe, applying a small amount of pipe joint compound onto the compression ring.
- 10
Tighten the compression nut onto the shutoff valve with an adjustable wrench. Finally, turn the water supply on, making sure the shutoff valve is turned off.
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