What You Should Know About Planting Climbers
Once the soil has settled, dig a hole 18 inches away from the wall or fence, large enough to accommodate the full spread of the roots, for bare root plants and about twice as wide as the root ball for container grown types.
The planting hole should be the same depth as the root ball.
As you dig, place all excavated soil on to a sheet meet to the planting hole.
Then, you need to fork over the soil in the bottom of the hole.
Add well rotted manure or organic matter, such as garden compost to the soil as well as a handful of bone meal and gently fork it in, use later gloves for protection when handling bone meal.
Remove container grown specimens from their pots and tease the roots out from around the root ball before planting to encourage them to spread into the surrounding soil.
With the exception of clematis, position the climber at the same depth as it was in the pot or the nursery bed, look for a soil mark on the stem, angling it back at 45 degrees towards the bottom of the support.
Check the planting depth by laying a cane across the hole, then add or remove soil as necessary.
Backfill the first few inches of the hole with the excavated soil and give bare root climbers a gentle shake to settle the soil.
Firm the first layer around the roots with your hands before adding a second layer and repeating the process until the hole is filled.
Water in well and cover the soil around the new specimen with a 3 inches deep layer of well rotted, organic mulch but take care not to pile it up against the stems.
The soil next to established trees and shrubs is often dry and full off roots and it may be difficult for a climber to become established.
The best position for a new plant is at the edge of the tree or shrub canopy, where water will run off when it rains, also known as the drip zone.
When digging the planting hole try as far as possible to do this without disturbing the surrounding soil or any major roots.
Cut off any minor roots that become exposed in the planting hole.
Improve the soil with well rotted garden compost and bone meal, and then line the sides of the planting hole with pieces of old timber.
This will give the climber a chance to establish without suffering from too much competition from surrounding plants.
The timber will eventually rot away without you having to remove it.
The planting hole should be the same depth as the root ball.
As you dig, place all excavated soil on to a sheet meet to the planting hole.
Then, you need to fork over the soil in the bottom of the hole.
Add well rotted manure or organic matter, such as garden compost to the soil as well as a handful of bone meal and gently fork it in, use later gloves for protection when handling bone meal.
Remove container grown specimens from their pots and tease the roots out from around the root ball before planting to encourage them to spread into the surrounding soil.
With the exception of clematis, position the climber at the same depth as it was in the pot or the nursery bed, look for a soil mark on the stem, angling it back at 45 degrees towards the bottom of the support.
Check the planting depth by laying a cane across the hole, then add or remove soil as necessary.
Backfill the first few inches of the hole with the excavated soil and give bare root climbers a gentle shake to settle the soil.
Firm the first layer around the roots with your hands before adding a second layer and repeating the process until the hole is filled.
Water in well and cover the soil around the new specimen with a 3 inches deep layer of well rotted, organic mulch but take care not to pile it up against the stems.
The soil next to established trees and shrubs is often dry and full off roots and it may be difficult for a climber to become established.
The best position for a new plant is at the edge of the tree or shrub canopy, where water will run off when it rains, also known as the drip zone.
When digging the planting hole try as far as possible to do this without disturbing the surrounding soil or any major roots.
Cut off any minor roots that become exposed in the planting hole.
Improve the soil with well rotted garden compost and bone meal, and then line the sides of the planting hole with pieces of old timber.
This will give the climber a chance to establish without suffering from too much competition from surrounding plants.
The timber will eventually rot away without you having to remove it.
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