a-Hydroxy acids (AHAs) to treat wrinkles

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AHAs can be used effectively and safely as peeling agents to improve photo aged skin. AHAs, such as glycolic, lactic and citric acids,
are acids that are found naturally occurring in plants and animals. Glycolic acid, one of the most commonly used AHAs, is found in sugar
cane. It has been reported to cause epidermolysis when applied to the skin for 3-7 minutes. However, the skin response
depends on the concentration, on the pH, on the vehicle, on the duration of contact with the skin and on the amount of free acid delivered to the skin. Thus glycolic acid can be used to evoke a controlled event in the skin that initially results in exfoliation of the superficial layers of the epidermis (desquamation) or deeper (epidermolysis).

Glycolic acid can readily be used as a conventional therapeutic peeling agent. Glycolic acid peel solution may be prepared by dissolving glycolic acid in water and ethanol to make 70%, 50%, 35% and 20% concentrations. If the acid is left in contact with the skin for more than 10 minutes, deep epidermolysis and penetration to the dermis occur.

However, glycolic acid is mainly used as a superficial chemical peeling agent. These 'refresher peels' or 'lunchtime peels' differ
from conventional therapeutic peels in that there is little skin reaction (a trace of erythema or irritation which can be concealed
with make-up) and patients can go about their regular business without concern. The patient must be cautioned that since glycolic
acid will be used to achieve more superficial effects, it is necessary to repeat the procedure at scheduled intervals. Very few studies have been done to assess the efficacy of this proce-
dure. In one double-blind vehicle-controlled study, glycolic acid (50%) or vehicle was applied for 5 minutes to one side of the face,
forearms and hands once weekly for 4 weeks in patients with mildly photoaged skin.

A significant improvement was noted on the side treated with glycolic acid, including reduction in rough texture and fine wrinkling, fewer solar keratoses and slight lightening of solar lentigines. Histology confirmed these clinical findings by demonstrating thinning of the stratum corneum, granular layer enhancement, epidermal thickening and increase in collagen thickness in the dermis. In another controlled study, using a different protocol performed in a small number of patients (n = 12) showing a moderate degree of photodam- age, it was concluded that no specific benefit could be assigned to the use of monthly glycolic acid (70%) refresher peels over aperiod of 4 months.

Topical moisturizers based on AHAs may be useful in improving photoaged skin. In one study involving 17 subjects with moderate to
severe photo damage, patients applied twice daily a lotion containing 25 % glycolic (7 subjects), lactic (5) or citric acid (5) to one
forearm and a placebo lotion to the opposite forearm for an average of 6 months. Treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25 per cent increase in skin thickness. This difference between AHA and vehicle
treatment was statistically significant. No significant difference in response among the three AHAs was noted. Histology revealed that this increase in skin thickness was caused by epidermal and papillary dermal thickening without dermal oedema.

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