Measuring

• Start your measurements with a scale rule to translate the measurements from the construction drawings or blueprints to actual size. A tape measure, at least 25 feet long, is useful for measuring pieces to cut and in the layout process. If the angle or pitch of the upper cords is not clearly labeled on the drawing, an angle finder is handy for calculating the angles of your miter cuts. Last but not least, a level is used in the installation process to ensure that the truss is upright.
  
  

Layout

• There are various methods for laying out trusses. If you have a complete blueprint with part lengths and angles, you can skip straight to the cutout phase. Otherwise, some sort of template must be created. There are two common methods. The first is to draw the outline of the truss in chalk, with a chalk line, on a driveway or other large, concrete surface. The other is to tie string between wooden stakes driven into the ground and the three corners of the triangle.
  
  

Cutting

• A miter saw is the very best tool for a cutting job, particularly if you have multiple trusses to build. This tool allows an exact miter angle to be set and used for all of your end cuts, ensuring the best possible fit. A hand miter box can also be used, but it can be a long and tiring process. A circular saw is the second best option if a miter saw is not available. Use a rafter square to mark the angles and fit the saw with a coarse tooth blade for best results.
  
  

Fastening

• The corners of the truss are typically fastened with plywood plates known as gussets, stapled to the face of the truss. The gussets are glued in place with wood glue, then stapled with a wide crown air stapler. Once the truss is built, a screw gun or cordless drill is used to fasten it to the top of the wall through the use of hurricane tie brackets. Hand nail it with a hammer if a drill is not available.