Fence Repair - Replacing a Broken Fence Post
It sounds like a daunting task to replace a broken fence post but it is not as difficult as it may seem.
It does take a bit of elbow grease and a few simple tools you probably already have in the shed or garage.
Where do you start? First you need to assess the project and the damage.
Did the post rot and just break or was it sheered off due to some nasty weather conditions.
Is there still a remaining stump or is it broken off at the ground or concrete level? Do not be afraid, the project is moderately difficult and should only take about 1 to 2 hours of your time to complete and your fence will be good as new.
Difficulty Level: Moderate Time Required: Approximately 1 to 2 Hours Required Tools - Shovel - Pry Bar - Level - 1 Replacement Post - Typically 4" x 4" x 8' Cedar or Treated Lumber - 1 - 80 Pound Bag of Quickrete Concrete Mix - 3" Wood Screws (Approximately 12 Screws) Optional Tools - Auger or Clam Shell Post Hole Digger - Bag of Gravel - Hand Saw or Circular Saw Typically, most fence posts are set into the ground using concrete but others are installed using packed dirt in the fence post hole.
If you do not see concrete at the ground level, take an ordinary shovel and dig down a few inches near the broken post location and see if you hit concrete.
Most fence posts are set in concrete and for the most part a standard post hole is approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches in diameter and most are about twenty-four (24") inches deep.
There are different schools of thought when it comes to removing an existing post.
Some people prefer the smash and grab technique which is simply using a hammer and chisel or pry bar to break the concrete into small pieces and pull them out of the existing hole one by one.
The technique does work but is a lot of work and it can take between one (1) and two (2) hours of labor to extract the concrete from the hole.
It is fine if you have a single post to replace but if there are multiple, the work involved is very tedious and tiring and there are better ways.
The method I prefer is to take a long, skinny bladed shovel and dig out the dirt just to the side of the concrete exposing the side of the concrete block.
Just remember to pile the dirt close to the hole as the dirt you remove will be used to re-pack the hole once the post and concrete block is removed from the ground.
From the edge of the concrete, dig out about six (6") to eight (8") inches and down twenty-four (24") inches.
This allows for a pocket as wide as the concrete block.
If a piece or stump from the existing post is still in place, you can use it and start moving the concrete block back and forth using the new pocket space you just created.
Once it is loose, you should be able to use your shovel or pry bar as a lever and lift the concrete block from the hole.
Be careful and make sure you lift with your legs as the concrete block can weigh as much as eighty (80) pounds.
If the existing post or post stump is no longer attached to the concrete, you should be able to use a pry bar or even your shovel to move the existing concrete block back and forth in a similar manner loosening it from its original placement.
Once, the block is movable, use the same process as mentioned above but please be careful to use proper lifting techniques when removing the concrete.
A doctors visit is not prescribed in this project.
Once the block is removed, use the dirt you removed from the excavation to fill in the six (6") to eight (8") inches you originally dug out.
Be sure to pack the dirt solidly as it will provide the lateral support for the new post when it is in position.
The concrete you use when you set the new post will provide plenty of support in addition to attaching the existing fence structure but the better you pack the dirt, the better the result.
You should be left with a standard hole approximately twenty-four (24") inches deep and approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches wide.
From here, you should take your clam digger or post hole digger or if you do not have one, just use your shovel and dig out approximately two (2") inches at the bottom of the hole.
Then add loose gravel in those two (2") inches for drainage to keep water away from the bottom of the post.
If you do not have or did not purchase a bag of gravel when you purchased your replacement post and concrete, do not worry.
The concrete has gravel in it and will work but the gravel does make the drainage more efficient.
Once you have the base in place, it is time to install the replacement post.
Grab your replacement post and center it in the hole.
If you have a helper, have them hold the post and make sure that it lines up correctly with the fence and the old post you just removed.
Once you have it in the correct position, open an eighty (80) pound bag of Quickrete concrete and pour it dry into the hole.
Make sure you are wearing eye protection and to cover your mouth so you do not inhale the concrete dust that typically spews out of the hole as you pour in the mixture.
Pour all of the contents into the hole.
Grab your garden hose or a bucket of water and start pouring water into the hole and make sure to pour around the new post in a circular pattern to make sure you get the whole top layer of the concrete wet.
The water will begin to bubble as it starts seeping to the bottom.
Continue to add water until it pools a bit.
It will absorb through the mix.
At this point, take your pry bar or a piece of rebar or even a sturdy stick and start poking the concrete mixture to help get the water to flow down to the bottom as well as remove the air bubbles that form.
It is OK if the water pools a bit but don't make the mixture too wet as it will take longer to set.
Now take your level and make sure that the post is still in its upright vertical position.
It is helpful if you check on multiple sides and make sure the bubble on the level is in the middle and between the marks.
Once the post is level, use pieces of wood to create a stand of sorts at the bottom to keep the post from moving while the concrete sets up overnight.
The concrete will begin setting and depending on the climate should be ready the next day to re-hang the fence pieces.
If the post moves, wiggle it into the vertical position and then using your stick or pry bar, move the concrete mix around so it touches the post on all sides in the ground with no gaps.
If gaps form, you may need to add a bit of additional water to make the mixture more liquid.
Any pooled water will be absorbed into the concrete and surrounding dirt and also evaporate as the concrete sets.
The next day, you should be able to re-affix the fence to the post and it should be good as new.
Before you attach the old fence pieces, you should check the height of the fence post in comparison to the other posts in your fence line.
Depending on the rest of your fence, you may want to use a hand or electric saw to cut the new post to match the other posts on your fence.
If the post does not need to be cut, then you can attach the old fence pieces to the new post.
Be sure to use screws when you attach the fence it back into the new post to ensure a more stable connection than nails which can pull out in windy or bad weather conditions over time causing integrity issues.
The overall project is a moderate or medium difficulty project and should take approximately sixty (60) to ninety (90) minutes to complete.
It does take a bit of elbow grease and a few simple tools you probably already have in the shed or garage.
Where do you start? First you need to assess the project and the damage.
Did the post rot and just break or was it sheered off due to some nasty weather conditions.
Is there still a remaining stump or is it broken off at the ground or concrete level? Do not be afraid, the project is moderately difficult and should only take about 1 to 2 hours of your time to complete and your fence will be good as new.
Difficulty Level: Moderate Time Required: Approximately 1 to 2 Hours Required Tools - Shovel - Pry Bar - Level - 1 Replacement Post - Typically 4" x 4" x 8' Cedar or Treated Lumber - 1 - 80 Pound Bag of Quickrete Concrete Mix - 3" Wood Screws (Approximately 12 Screws) Optional Tools - Auger or Clam Shell Post Hole Digger - Bag of Gravel - Hand Saw or Circular Saw Typically, most fence posts are set into the ground using concrete but others are installed using packed dirt in the fence post hole.
If you do not see concrete at the ground level, take an ordinary shovel and dig down a few inches near the broken post location and see if you hit concrete.
Most fence posts are set in concrete and for the most part a standard post hole is approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches in diameter and most are about twenty-four (24") inches deep.
There are different schools of thought when it comes to removing an existing post.
Some people prefer the smash and grab technique which is simply using a hammer and chisel or pry bar to break the concrete into small pieces and pull them out of the existing hole one by one.
The technique does work but is a lot of work and it can take between one (1) and two (2) hours of labor to extract the concrete from the hole.
It is fine if you have a single post to replace but if there are multiple, the work involved is very tedious and tiring and there are better ways.
The method I prefer is to take a long, skinny bladed shovel and dig out the dirt just to the side of the concrete exposing the side of the concrete block.
Just remember to pile the dirt close to the hole as the dirt you remove will be used to re-pack the hole once the post and concrete block is removed from the ground.
From the edge of the concrete, dig out about six (6") to eight (8") inches and down twenty-four (24") inches.
This allows for a pocket as wide as the concrete block.
If a piece or stump from the existing post is still in place, you can use it and start moving the concrete block back and forth using the new pocket space you just created.
Once it is loose, you should be able to use your shovel or pry bar as a lever and lift the concrete block from the hole.
Be careful and make sure you lift with your legs as the concrete block can weigh as much as eighty (80) pounds.
If the existing post or post stump is no longer attached to the concrete, you should be able to use a pry bar or even your shovel to move the existing concrete block back and forth in a similar manner loosening it from its original placement.
Once, the block is movable, use the same process as mentioned above but please be careful to use proper lifting techniques when removing the concrete.
A doctors visit is not prescribed in this project.
Once the block is removed, use the dirt you removed from the excavation to fill in the six (6") to eight (8") inches you originally dug out.
Be sure to pack the dirt solidly as it will provide the lateral support for the new post when it is in position.
The concrete you use when you set the new post will provide plenty of support in addition to attaching the existing fence structure but the better you pack the dirt, the better the result.
You should be left with a standard hole approximately twenty-four (24") inches deep and approximately eight (8") to twelve (12") inches wide.
From here, you should take your clam digger or post hole digger or if you do not have one, just use your shovel and dig out approximately two (2") inches at the bottom of the hole.
Then add loose gravel in those two (2") inches for drainage to keep water away from the bottom of the post.
If you do not have or did not purchase a bag of gravel when you purchased your replacement post and concrete, do not worry.
The concrete has gravel in it and will work but the gravel does make the drainage more efficient.
Once you have the base in place, it is time to install the replacement post.
Grab your replacement post and center it in the hole.
If you have a helper, have them hold the post and make sure that it lines up correctly with the fence and the old post you just removed.
Once you have it in the correct position, open an eighty (80) pound bag of Quickrete concrete and pour it dry into the hole.
Make sure you are wearing eye protection and to cover your mouth so you do not inhale the concrete dust that typically spews out of the hole as you pour in the mixture.
Pour all of the contents into the hole.
Grab your garden hose or a bucket of water and start pouring water into the hole and make sure to pour around the new post in a circular pattern to make sure you get the whole top layer of the concrete wet.
The water will begin to bubble as it starts seeping to the bottom.
Continue to add water until it pools a bit.
It will absorb through the mix.
At this point, take your pry bar or a piece of rebar or even a sturdy stick and start poking the concrete mixture to help get the water to flow down to the bottom as well as remove the air bubbles that form.
It is OK if the water pools a bit but don't make the mixture too wet as it will take longer to set.
Now take your level and make sure that the post is still in its upright vertical position.
It is helpful if you check on multiple sides and make sure the bubble on the level is in the middle and between the marks.
Once the post is level, use pieces of wood to create a stand of sorts at the bottom to keep the post from moving while the concrete sets up overnight.
The concrete will begin setting and depending on the climate should be ready the next day to re-hang the fence pieces.
If the post moves, wiggle it into the vertical position and then using your stick or pry bar, move the concrete mix around so it touches the post on all sides in the ground with no gaps.
If gaps form, you may need to add a bit of additional water to make the mixture more liquid.
Any pooled water will be absorbed into the concrete and surrounding dirt and also evaporate as the concrete sets.
The next day, you should be able to re-affix the fence to the post and it should be good as new.
Before you attach the old fence pieces, you should check the height of the fence post in comparison to the other posts in your fence line.
Depending on the rest of your fence, you may want to use a hand or electric saw to cut the new post to match the other posts on your fence.
If the post does not need to be cut, then you can attach the old fence pieces to the new post.
Be sure to use screws when you attach the fence it back into the new post to ensure a more stable connection than nails which can pull out in windy or bad weather conditions over time causing integrity issues.
The overall project is a moderate or medium difficulty project and should take approximately sixty (60) to ninety (90) minutes to complete.
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