Design and Lay Out the Workshop

• 1). Lay out the design, dimensions and floor plan of the workshop. Consider the types of projects that will be done in the workshop. The size of materials that will need to manipulated in the workshop and the pieces of power equipment to be installed should also be considered. Consider the space requirements for storage, work surfaces and walking space.
  Decide on the number and location of doors and windows. Draw your design on graph paper with a t-square and pencil.
  
  
• 2). Design the specific dimensions of the work space, benches and the location of overhead storage and lighting. Draw these as additions onto a copy of the floor plan. If the design calls for a large space and multiple work surfaces, consider HVAC requirements, location, wiring, ducting and vents. Consider the dimensions of standard structures for possible cost savings. Example: the standard width of a one-car garage is 12 feet. If that width were utilized for the workshop, 12-foot trusses and even a standard garage door, could be utilized for significant savings.
  
  
• 3). Decide on the roofing, interior walls, insulation and slab requirements. Most workshops do not require reinforced concrete or foundation footings -- a 4-inch concrete slab is sufficient. Consider also the possible extension of the slab for additional outdoor work space. Many DIY carpenters and hobbyists have added a garage door to their workshop -- on a non street-facing side of the structure -- and extended the slab to accommodate outdoor work on large projects.
  
  
• 4). Review the final workshop design against both its physical location on the property and a rough calculation of investment range. If the size or cost of the planned workshop gives pause to the project, consider reviewing and redesigning it.
  
  
• 5). Decide on exterior design and decor. This includes the color and style of brick as well as paint and color coordination of windows, doors, eaves and trim.
  
  
• 6). Once the design has been frozen and committed funding is in place, schedule the project. A brick workshop can typically be erected in two to three weeks. Give special consideration to concrete aging requirements vis-a-vis weather.
  
  

Construct the Brick Workshop

• 1). Scrape sod and any other surface material from the slab location and stake out the dimensions. Frame the dimensions of the slab with 1-inch by 6-inch lumber, standing 1-inch-side up. Lay down 2 inches of pea gravel and wet it heavily with a garden sprayer. Roll the pea gravel into the dirt after an hour of moisture absorption by the soil. Allow the prepared slab subsurface to dry for 48 hours.
  
  
• 2). Pour 4 inches of ready-mix concrete for the slab. Point the edges and corners of the concrete slab. This involves rounding the upper surface of the outside edges and corners. The best tool to use for this is a garden hand spade with a curved blade. Wet and slide the curved side of the blade along the edges and corners, leaving a rounded edge that will resist cracking. Level and trowel the surface flat and allow it to dry for four days.
  
  
• 3). Snap the exterior block dimensions with a chalk line and lay enough courses of concrete block to reach the truss level of the structure. Allow the concrete to cure for 48 hours. Lay the brick courses up to the truss level and around windows and doors. Wet the slab surface around the outside of the concrete block and lay down a ridge of mortar several inches thick. Start at one end of the wall and trowel several inches of mortar to the end of the first brick. Press it into the ridge of mortar with the buttered end facing down the wall and work it down to 1/2-inch from the slab. Trowel off the excess mortar around the brick and tap it into a level position. Continue with the remainder of bricks in the course. Set up plumb lines and lay the next course, staggering the bricks. Be sure to provide openings for vents, electrical and plumbing entry points as required. Install window and door frames. Allow the brick to set up for four days. Most doors are framed around rough brick edges but windows require brick trim. Start at the bottom of the window opening and lay bricks side-by-side at a 45-degree angle on the sill. Finish the window by laying bricks end-to-end around the opening.
  
  
• 4). Lift and attach the trusses to the top of the block wall. They should be either nailed to the top plate (the 2-by-12 that rests flat on the top course of block) or hung from the top plate with truss fasteners. Frame and nail the king post -- the long board that forms the top edge of the roof -- by measuring the length of the inside dimension of the structure and nailing the rafters to it. Measure, cut and nail the rafter 2-by-4s at a 45-degree angle to the king post and the other end to the top plate. Fill in fascia (the underside of the roof extension beyond the walls) with measured and cut plywood. The end panels are the triangular spaces above the wall level and extending to the rooftop -- front and rear. Close these spaces in with 2-by-4s and plywood. Finish the window and door trim with stock trim.
  
  
• 5). Measure, cut and nail the roof sheathing, paper and shingles.
  
  
• 6). Measure, cut and nail-gun the wall 2-inch by 4inch lumber and ceiling joist. Determine the number, location, distance and routing of all wiring and plumbing lines. Attach junction boxes and other support elements for HVAC and plumbing. Install insulation in the walls and ceiling if the design calls for it. Cover the walls with paneling or sheet rock. Install ceiling panels and sub-flooring. Install the windows and doors.
  
  
• 7). Install work surfaces and cabinets. Install power fixtures and plugs. Install power equipment and lighting. Install tile or linoleum. Paint all the interior and exterior trim.