Installation

• 1). Find the center of the stairs, width-wise. Measure from the center to the outer edge and determine if a large cut or small cut will be left. If a small cut is present, center the marble itself on the center line; this will increase the size of the cut on either side while maintaining a centered theme (same size cuts on both side). Once you have established the center, carry the line all the way down the stairs so you can have a control mark to hold your lines true. You can draw this with a pencil or marker.
  
  
• 2). Determine if you will need to cut the face pieces to fit. You will want the actual step pieces to overlap the face pieces so that the grout line is hidden from view as you walk down the stairs. Also it provides structural integrity by adding a "pillar" of extra support under the edge of the top piece.
  
  
• 3). Cut the tile with the wet saw. Once you have determined if you need to cut the face pieces down to size, use the wet saw to cut them. Make sure they are dried completely before applying thinset, or the materiel will not bond properly.
  
  
• 4). Following the directions on the package, use the drill and paddle to mix the latex-modified marble and granite thinset in one of the buckets. Be sure to use marble and granite thinset, as it is specially blended to accommodate the natural porousness of the marble, which can allow the grey color of normal thinset to bleed through, discoloring the stone.
  
  
• 5). Using your center mark, apply thinset directly to the face of the stairs using the notched side of your 3/8" trowel. Make sure to cover 100% of the stair face, leaving only a visible mark so you know where the center is. Using the flat side of your trowel, apply a thin layer of thinset to the back of the piece of marble. This is done so the moisture and color of the thinset does not bleed through in grooves.
  
  
• 6). Press the piece of marble into place against the face of the stair. Using your hand, apply pressure to the marble and move it side to side, up and down, several times in each direction to insure proper bond to the thinset. You may hear several "air" sounds; which means the air is being forced out from behind the tile and the thinset is providing 100% coverage.
  
  
• 7). Once you have finished the face pieces of a stair, move to the top area and cut those to fit, using the tape measure and grease pencil to mark the marble. You will want the marble to overlap the face piece with the outer edge of the top piece flush with the face of the stair piece below.
  
  
• 8). Using your 3/8" trowel, apply thinset evenly to 100% of the surface of the step. Use the flat side of your trowel to do the same to the back of the marble. Place it on the step and apply pressure, repeating the process in step 4.
  
  
• 9). Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 for each individual stair-step until you are completed. Let set for 24 hours minimum before grouting.
  
  

Grouting

• 1). Use a non-sanded grout. Sanded grout will scratch the surface of the marble.
  
  
• 2). Using your margin trowel, mix the grout according to the instructions on the package.
  
  
• 3). Apply grout with a grout float. Force into the joints. Wait 15-20 minutes and repeat the process. Grouting marble is different from ceramic in that the stone is naturally porous. As a result the grout tends to "shrink" once it is forced into the joint. Repeating the process helps reduce the shrinkage and keep the joints full and flush. Wait 20-30 minutes before washing.
  
  
• 4). Using a sponge and bucket of water, gently use circular motions with a damp sponge to smooth the joints and remove the excess grout from the surface. If any haze remains, wipe diagonally to remove. Keep your sponge cleaned frequently, and only use it damp.
  
  
• 5). Let it sit for 30-45 minutes. Double check the grout joints to insure fullness. If they are good, then simply let it sit for another hour or so before polishing the surface with a dry towel or rag to remove any final haze.