Model Train Track
A model train track is the heart of your model railway system.
Spending time to get this aspect of your hobby right from the start will avoid countless future running problems.
There are many choices relating to track work that need to be made which will ultimately affect your whole set up.
Things to consider before you start laying track could include: 1)Gauge of track 2)Flexible, set track or Scratch built 3)Standard or Fine scale 4)Complexity of track plan The scale you decide to model your train world in is usually dictated by the space you have available for your model layout.
There are limits to how sharp you can make a curve.
Make the curve too tight and the model train is likely to derail.
The NMRA (National Model Railway Association) suggests a minimum radius of 40 Inches for HO and 21.
5 inches for N.
You can go tighter than this but make sure you test you rolling stock before permanently fixing your track down.
Another point to consider is whether you wish to use Set-track, flexible track or scratch-build your own.
Set-track is a term used to describe the short fixed pieces of track which you usually get in a train set.
Model train track of this type is rigid and cannot be bent to suite your plan.
There are a wide variety of shapes and sizes however for you to create interesting and complex track networks.
This track system is usually the one most beginners start out with as all you have to do is join them and fix them to the baseboard.
Flexible track is a system of meter-length rails which can be curved and bent to your precise needs and cut to any length you wish.
This allows for natural and realistic looking curves.
Flexible track takes additional skill and experience to cut and lay to ensure smooth running of locomotives.
This is why this option is usually considered a step up from the beginner's level.
For ultimate freedom in track design, some enthusiasts decide to scratch build their own tracks.
This can involve cutting small timber sleepers (or ties), laying rails and pinning them to the sleepers.
This is time consuming but can be very rewarding, producing realistic looking track.
One of the greatest benefits of scratch building model train track is the ability to create points (turnouts) that are as complex as your imagination can dream up or can fit a tricky piece of network where a commercially available point cannot.
Points or turnouts are an important aspect of model train track that needs some thought given to.
If you wish to run long, large locomotives which have many driving wheels, you may have trouble in running if you choose small radius points.
Check with your local model railway outlet or on some of the informative forums on the internet regarding the minimum recommended radius for your locomotive.
Commercially available points can come in two types.
Electro-frog and Insul-frog.
We are not going to go too much into detail about the differences between the two in this article as this is more of a electrical wiring topic.
Electro-frog points are slightly more difficult to wire so Insul-frogs are usually recommended for beginners.
Once you've laid your network of model train track, ensure that you test it thoroughly.
Only when you are satisfied that trains are running trouble free in both directions, you may then want to consider adding the final touch to your track-work, ballast.
Ballast is the lumps of stone that you see between the tracks on a real railway.
This ensures that the rails stay correctly positioned and avoids movement by the passing of heavy trains.
There are many products on the market that simulate the ballast in the scale you are modeling.
They come in a variety of sizes and colours.
Ballast should be laid and fixed with a diluted PVA glue and water mix.
Usually a 50/50 mix of PVA and water is sufficient.
Spray the ballast with a fine mist of water before applying the glue.
This will aid in the glue absorbing into the ballast and ensure a good solid setting.
Another trick to aid in the absorption of the glue is to add a tea spoon of dishwashing detergent to the glue mix.
It is important to be very careful when applying ballast to point work.
Many enthusiasts keep ballast clear of the moving point blades as any glue or stone can affect the operation of the points.
An alternative to stone ballast is a product called ballast underlay.
This is usually made from foam and simulates the ballast without the need for complex gluing however the end result is far less realistic.
Happy Model Railroading!
Spending time to get this aspect of your hobby right from the start will avoid countless future running problems.
There are many choices relating to track work that need to be made which will ultimately affect your whole set up.
Things to consider before you start laying track could include: 1)Gauge of track 2)Flexible, set track or Scratch built 3)Standard or Fine scale 4)Complexity of track plan The scale you decide to model your train world in is usually dictated by the space you have available for your model layout.
There are limits to how sharp you can make a curve.
Make the curve too tight and the model train is likely to derail.
The NMRA (National Model Railway Association) suggests a minimum radius of 40 Inches for HO and 21.
5 inches for N.
You can go tighter than this but make sure you test you rolling stock before permanently fixing your track down.
Another point to consider is whether you wish to use Set-track, flexible track or scratch-build your own.
Set-track is a term used to describe the short fixed pieces of track which you usually get in a train set.
Model train track of this type is rigid and cannot be bent to suite your plan.
There are a wide variety of shapes and sizes however for you to create interesting and complex track networks.
This track system is usually the one most beginners start out with as all you have to do is join them and fix them to the baseboard.
Flexible track is a system of meter-length rails which can be curved and bent to your precise needs and cut to any length you wish.
This allows for natural and realistic looking curves.
Flexible track takes additional skill and experience to cut and lay to ensure smooth running of locomotives.
This is why this option is usually considered a step up from the beginner's level.
For ultimate freedom in track design, some enthusiasts decide to scratch build their own tracks.
This can involve cutting small timber sleepers (or ties), laying rails and pinning them to the sleepers.
This is time consuming but can be very rewarding, producing realistic looking track.
One of the greatest benefits of scratch building model train track is the ability to create points (turnouts) that are as complex as your imagination can dream up or can fit a tricky piece of network where a commercially available point cannot.
Points or turnouts are an important aspect of model train track that needs some thought given to.
If you wish to run long, large locomotives which have many driving wheels, you may have trouble in running if you choose small radius points.
Check with your local model railway outlet or on some of the informative forums on the internet regarding the minimum recommended radius for your locomotive.
Commercially available points can come in two types.
Electro-frog and Insul-frog.
We are not going to go too much into detail about the differences between the two in this article as this is more of a electrical wiring topic.
Electro-frog points are slightly more difficult to wire so Insul-frogs are usually recommended for beginners.
Once you've laid your network of model train track, ensure that you test it thoroughly.
Only when you are satisfied that trains are running trouble free in both directions, you may then want to consider adding the final touch to your track-work, ballast.
Ballast is the lumps of stone that you see between the tracks on a real railway.
This ensures that the rails stay correctly positioned and avoids movement by the passing of heavy trains.
There are many products on the market that simulate the ballast in the scale you are modeling.
They come in a variety of sizes and colours.
Ballast should be laid and fixed with a diluted PVA glue and water mix.
Usually a 50/50 mix of PVA and water is sufficient.
Spray the ballast with a fine mist of water before applying the glue.
This will aid in the glue absorbing into the ballast and ensure a good solid setting.
Another trick to aid in the absorption of the glue is to add a tea spoon of dishwashing detergent to the glue mix.
It is important to be very careful when applying ballast to point work.
Many enthusiasts keep ballast clear of the moving point blades as any glue or stone can affect the operation of the points.
An alternative to stone ballast is a product called ballast underlay.
This is usually made from foam and simulates the ballast without the need for complex gluing however the end result is far less realistic.
Happy Model Railroading!
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