Bead Stringing Basics - What to Use, A Few Tips, Which Beading Threads Are Good and Which Are Not
Beading and jewelery making is a great hobby, which can become a great business if you are so inclined.
But before you make your name as a major new fashion accessories designer, you have to get to know your basics, and beading threads are both basic and complex.
There are a myriad of brand names out there, and it can get very confusing if you are not sure what they are or how you use them.
We'll attempt to shed a little light on the subject.
Nylon wire Nylon wire is a single strand of nylon plastic in a specific diameter.
It is strong and cheap but a little inflexible and doesn't knot so well, as kinks form easily at the knots.
Nylon wire comes in a wide range of colours and gauges or thicknesses, and the colourless variety is great for using as an invisible thread when you want the beads to be the main feature and to appear to float on the body.
Brand names include Fireline and Nymo.
Not to be confused with nylon thread, which is the multi strand twisted thread you might see in beading and sewing applications.
Elastic thread Elastic thread is also made of nylon, but is stretchy and much more flexible.
Its ideal for making bracelets and other jewelery without clasps, but make sure you finish any knots with a dab of superglue or they will eventually come undone.
Again, this is available in a wide range of colours and diameters.
Brands include Stretch Magic.
Tigertail Tigertail is several strands of thin steel twisted into a cable then covered with a thin nylon sheath which can be any colour.
The number of strands in the core varies from 3-7 or more, and generally the more strands the better the wire.
It also comes in a range of diameters.
Tigertail is the strongest option and under normal usage will never break, but it is a bit inflexible and kinks when knotting.
Its great for heavier beads, and as the tigertail is not unattractive it can be used in applications where the stringing material is visible.
Brands include Beadalon.
Terylene thread Terylene thread is my personal favourite, its a synthetic thread so won't rot, very flexible and has great movement for necklaces, its pretty to look at so doesn't detract from your designs, but it will eventually fray with wear, so you will need to re-string every few years.
It comes in a wide range of colours, knots well, and best of all, its cheap! I've not seen anyone else selling this, so can't tell you about any brands.
Natural threads Cotton or silk, these have great flexibility and are traditionally used in bead stringing, especially the stringing of pearls.
They do rot with wear and age, and particularly with damp and chemicals like perfume.
Traditional techniques involved the jeweller knotting between each bead so that if and when the thread breaks only 1 or 2 beads or pearls were lost, but this makes it expensive to use when making jewellery.
Thong or cord Thicker than standard stringing materials, thong was mostly used to hang pendants or make decorative knots, such as those in our Chinese knotwork kit.
It is used more in bead stringing since pandora beads became popular.
Thong can be made of waxed cotton (waxed to waterproof it and make it less susceptible to rot), leather, silk or satin (rattail) and is most commonly found in 1mm and 2mm diameters, although it can be sourced in up to 5mm diameter.
Metal Wire Metal wire comes in a range of colours, finishes, platings, and so on.
You can work with base metals or precious metals, depending on your budget and project suitability.
One mistake many beginners make is to use metal wire to string their beads, as a necklace cord for example.
Metal wire is not suitable for any project where the wire will move and flex, as movement will cause metal fatigue, which means that the wire will break.
Wire should only be used for rigid projects such as tiaras, ot to make rigid components in flexible work, such as jump rings and headpins.
Memory wire Memory wire is made of a springy steel alloy, usually plated or galvanised in a silver or gold finish.
It is used to form choker necklaces and coiled bracelets and rings.
It is called memory wire because it retains its shape and is very hard to form into any other shape.
To neaten the ends up when you've finished your project, glue a half drilled bead on each end using epoxy resin glue.
But before you make your name as a major new fashion accessories designer, you have to get to know your basics, and beading threads are both basic and complex.
There are a myriad of brand names out there, and it can get very confusing if you are not sure what they are or how you use them.
We'll attempt to shed a little light on the subject.
Nylon wire Nylon wire is a single strand of nylon plastic in a specific diameter.
It is strong and cheap but a little inflexible and doesn't knot so well, as kinks form easily at the knots.
Nylon wire comes in a wide range of colours and gauges or thicknesses, and the colourless variety is great for using as an invisible thread when you want the beads to be the main feature and to appear to float on the body.
Brand names include Fireline and Nymo.
Not to be confused with nylon thread, which is the multi strand twisted thread you might see in beading and sewing applications.
Elastic thread Elastic thread is also made of nylon, but is stretchy and much more flexible.
Its ideal for making bracelets and other jewelery without clasps, but make sure you finish any knots with a dab of superglue or they will eventually come undone.
Again, this is available in a wide range of colours and diameters.
Brands include Stretch Magic.
Tigertail Tigertail is several strands of thin steel twisted into a cable then covered with a thin nylon sheath which can be any colour.
The number of strands in the core varies from 3-7 or more, and generally the more strands the better the wire.
It also comes in a range of diameters.
Tigertail is the strongest option and under normal usage will never break, but it is a bit inflexible and kinks when knotting.
Its great for heavier beads, and as the tigertail is not unattractive it can be used in applications where the stringing material is visible.
Brands include Beadalon.
Terylene thread Terylene thread is my personal favourite, its a synthetic thread so won't rot, very flexible and has great movement for necklaces, its pretty to look at so doesn't detract from your designs, but it will eventually fray with wear, so you will need to re-string every few years.
It comes in a wide range of colours, knots well, and best of all, its cheap! I've not seen anyone else selling this, so can't tell you about any brands.
Natural threads Cotton or silk, these have great flexibility and are traditionally used in bead stringing, especially the stringing of pearls.
They do rot with wear and age, and particularly with damp and chemicals like perfume.
Traditional techniques involved the jeweller knotting between each bead so that if and when the thread breaks only 1 or 2 beads or pearls were lost, but this makes it expensive to use when making jewellery.
Thong or cord Thicker than standard stringing materials, thong was mostly used to hang pendants or make decorative knots, such as those in our Chinese knotwork kit.
It is used more in bead stringing since pandora beads became popular.
Thong can be made of waxed cotton (waxed to waterproof it and make it less susceptible to rot), leather, silk or satin (rattail) and is most commonly found in 1mm and 2mm diameters, although it can be sourced in up to 5mm diameter.
Metal Wire Metal wire comes in a range of colours, finishes, platings, and so on.
You can work with base metals or precious metals, depending on your budget and project suitability.
One mistake many beginners make is to use metal wire to string their beads, as a necklace cord for example.
Metal wire is not suitable for any project where the wire will move and flex, as movement will cause metal fatigue, which means that the wire will break.
Wire should only be used for rigid projects such as tiaras, ot to make rigid components in flexible work, such as jump rings and headpins.
Memory wire Memory wire is made of a springy steel alloy, usually plated or galvanised in a silver or gold finish.
It is used to form choker necklaces and coiled bracelets and rings.
It is called memory wire because it retains its shape and is very hard to form into any other shape.
To neaten the ends up when you've finished your project, glue a half drilled bead on each end using epoxy resin glue.
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