Installing Blocking

• Snap two chalk lines at the top and bottom where you want to install the cabinets. Cut 2-by-6 inch blocks to fit between the studs and cut grooves on each end with a table saw so that the blocks are flush with the edge of the studs. Screw the blocks in with 1 1/4-inch hi/lo drywall screws. These screws have alternating high and low threads that are designed to drill through metal studs and attach to wood. Drywall suppliers and lumber yards carry these screws. Install blocking in each area you expect to put a screw.
  
  

Installing Cabinets with Wood Blocking

• Hanging cabinets to metal studs where blocking has been installed is performed the same way that cabinets are installed with wood studs. With wood blocking, you can drill pilot holes and place #10 2 1/2-inch cabinet screws or deck screws anywhere along the line of backing. Drill four pilot holes approximately 2 inches over and down from each corner. Angle the screws slightly upward to prevent the cabinets from sagging.
  
  

Installing Cabinets Without Wood Blocking

• If you must install cabinets to metal studs without wood blocking, attach them with pointed, fine-threaded, 2-inch (or longer, if necessary) drywall screws. The screws should penetrate the studs at least 1/2 inch. There are two primary gauges of studs used for interior, non-load bearing metal framing. If you have the thickest gauge, you are in good shape. If the studs you are attaching to are of the thinner gauge, you may have problems with screws stripping out. Counter sink the pilot holes so they are flush with the back of the cabinets and add more screws where necessary. If the cabinets will hold heavy loads, use toggle bolts in addition to the screws.