How to Insulate for Sound Control
- 1). Replace old, rattling windows with new ones. The Residential Sound Insulation Program recommends buying windows that have a Sound Transmission Control (STC) rating of at least 40. If replacing windows doesn't fit your budget, you can add storm windows or seal your current windows with caulk and adhesive weather stripping.
- 2). Install wood solid-core doors and add a storm door to each. The air pocket between the external storm door and the internal wood door will act as a sound buffer and decrease the amount of noise that enters your home. A less-expensive alternative is to add storm doors to your current doors and apply weather stripping around the edges of the door frame. Fill any gaps in the door or the frame with caulk.
- 3). Replace paneling and thin drywall with thick drywall and cement boards. The thicker the materials you add, the more sound insulation you will get. For maximum insulation, the Residential Sound Insulation Program recommends adding several layers: a primary layer of cement board, followed by a secondary layer of 5/8 inch drywall. You can install these over the existing walls, if necessary, but use screws long enough to penetrate the wood studs of the wall or ceiling.
- 4). Add extra insulation to the interiors of the walls and ceilings. To do this, you can either rip out the walls and ceilings and add fiberglass insulation or rigid board insulation, or you can hire a contractor to spray loose-fill insulation into your walls with a blower machine. If you have an open, unfinished attic, you may be able to add insulation to the ceiling by laying it in between the joists. Use insulation that has at least a R-25 rating.
- 5). Seal all other areas, such as vents and gaps around air conditioners and mail slots. The more tightly you seal your home, the better your sound insulation will be. Use fiberglass insulation, spray insulation foam, caulk and adhesive weather stripping.
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