Work Area

• 1). Make sure your repair area is free of debris and loose papers or objects that can catch fire. A tile table top is recommended, but any nonflammable surface will do. Keep a fire brick close by for certain procedures. A flat brick the size of a cookie sheet would be ideal.
  
  
• 2). To Start:
  Wipe down the saxophone's damaged area. Dirt, grease and saliva residue can prevent a solder from lasting. Cut your solder to length and try not to touch the end of the solder with your fingers. Add your paste (only a small amount to cover the area with a small paint brush) and heat it with your torch until the surface has a glassy appearance. The flux paste will be tacky.
  
  
• 3). Solder:
  Start with the hard silver solder and place only the amount needed to cover the area. Torch it. Silver melts at 1640 degrees Fahrenheit. Copper is the base shell of most good saxophones and it melts at 1981 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the temperature settings on your torch to make sure it is set at 1640 degrees Fahrenheit, to prevent melting the copper shell. Remember, if you can't melt the surface silver, the solder will not take.
  
  
• 4). Torch:
  Be sure the metal is heated so that it and the solder reach temperature simultaneously. Do not place the flame directly on the solder. Place the flame over the joint and the solder will run along the joint, being drawn in by the heat of the flame. As soon as the solder runs to the joint area, turn the flame off.
  
  
• 5). The Quench:
  Using your spray bottle filled with cold water, spray the area, wait a moment and wipe the area clean. Make sure it is dry before starting again.
  
  After the hard solder takes and is quenched, repeat the torching process with the medium solder and again with the soft solder.